OBRIGADA PORTUGAL

I haven't blogged for a few weeks because I've been lucky enough to spend three weeks travelling round Portugal. The last time we visited was 23+ years ago, to the Algarve with our children. Like most of our holidays then, it was on a budget, staying in rooms in people's homes, secreting in food and eating tinned sardine baguettes on our beds. In one pretty fishing village, Salema, we stayed in a small shell-covered house and lack of space meant that our son, aged about 5, slept on coats on the floor. During the day I sat in a beach bar, reading and drinking beer, recovering from working for Mencap, while Rhys played with the kids and a large stick insect they found on the beach. My son wrote a diary about the lack of fig rolls and mint sauce.
      In researching this trip I referred to the same Rough Guide I used back then. I planned a trip starting in Porto and travelling on the little trains that run through the Minho and the stunning scenery of the Douro Valley, well known for its fine Vinho Verdes and Port wines. Well, they did back then. It was only on the Metro from the airport that I learnt from another Brit, that those lines had closed years ago. Beeching like cuts. But he assured me buses went to nearly everywhere.  And they do. Our trip started and ended at Porto in the north and included Braga, Guimaraes, Mondim do Basto, Coimbra, Lisbon, Sintra and Ericeira.
     Travelling now with just my husband in what the company Booking.Com describe as 'a mature couple' my budget mentality hasn't changed although my resources have. In the old days we'd just pitch up and find rooms. Now with the internet it's easy to book your whole itinery and get some great deals. It also takes the anxiety out of will we/ won't we? find somewhere half decent. However, it would seem that the old habits are still ingrained and I found it very difficult not to choose the cheapest hotel or rooms,even on one occasion when reviews told me the place was dangerous, dirty and has an owner with an attitude problem. After enjoying the comfort of some really nice places and dreaming about being murdered in the communal showers, I relented and cancelled that one.
     Portugal has to be the most relaxed country I've ever visited as a tourist. The people are so helpful and friendly, all  the young people speak English and are happy to answer questions about their situation. More friendly in the north than in the capital, but isn't that often the case here too?  30% of young people are unemployed and there were demonstrations about the austerity cuts. We met graduates of different ages working in cafes and restaurants who were finding it tough but pleased to be working. Undoubtedly times are really hard for most Portuguese. But the transport system is efficient, quick,cheap and clean. (Have you visited Victoria Coach Station lately?) They have invested substantially over the past decade in their infrastructure and are keen on renewables. It's a country full of geographical variety, a history where exploration and adventure is promoted, lots of culture,exhibitions,music festivals, much sponsored by the Gulbenkian Foundation, and where the cost of living for tourists is cheaper than elsewhere in Europe. We drank 'jarros' of excellent wine at 3 Euros a litre. The weather was good and May is a great time to avoid crowds. And the hotels we stayed in? Very comfortable and safe. Obrigada Portugal for a great holiday.