IN SEARCH OF A REVOLUTION 10

Some of these places I hardly remember now because we seemed to speed through the days: lush countryside; cultural and historical places of interest, a swim or a walk, a lunch of ham and cheese sandwiches or rice and beans, arrive at our hotel at dusk to avoid over-booking, at least one member of the family unhappy about the accommodation, eat a banquet in a government restaurant or private home, go on to a 'Casas de la Trova' to hear music and watch dancing (we were mostly too intimated by the standard and not know Salsa steps well enough to take to the floor), drink a lot of cocktails, do a morning walking tour before jumping back on the bus for the panoramic tour and off to our next destination. The tour was following a pattern that not everybody appreciated but I was still loving every minute.

      Day 6 was one of my Cuban highlights-a visit to Che Guevara's mausoleum and museum at Santa Clara.  Throughout Cuba there is a refreshing absence of billboards and commercial advertising. No big yellow M's. Instead, there's Che's charismatic face looking at you everywhere. Not so often is the image of Fidel. I asked Ainsley why.   

      'We tend to honour the dead heroes of the revolution. Che is close to our hearts. When Fidel dies no doubt we will honour him in the same way.'

        After the unsuccessful attack on the Moncada barracks in Santigo de Cuba on 26th of July 1953, (which more of later), Fidel was sentenced to fifteen years in prison but was released after two years. He managed to escape to Mexico where he was joined by Che, doctor and revolutionary. In late November 1956, together with Raul, Fidel's brother and eighty other loyal comrades they set sail for Cuba in a yacht called 'The Granma,' built to carry twenty. On landing and suffering many casualties, the small band made for the wilderness of the Sierra Maestra mountains, from where they were to plan and execute the revolution. Photos of the time bear witness to the harsh conditions and Che's attempts to live like the other rebels without any special privileges that might go with his rank of General. 

       Che Guevara was to earn some of his reputation based on his bravery at Santa Clara in 1958, using tractors to de-rail a train carrying arms and troops. Greatly outnumbered he still managed to achieve his objective and many of Batista's troops surrendered.

       Che's remains were brought from Bolivia where he fought as a guerilla in the Bolivian army and was captured and shot in October 1967. He was a Cuban citizen and many of his family still live in Cuba today.

       In the mausoleum, a star of light shines over his remains. He lies there with other brave rebels. I scanned the names. I could see only the names of men. 'But what about the brave women? Where are the women in the revolution? 'I asked myself and Ainsley later. He looked rather sheepish.'Wait!' he said. And I wasn't to be disappointed. They do exist and their stories are inspirational. More later in this story.